The Salkantay Trek: an adventurous trek to Machu Picchu

There are countless ways to reach Machu Picchu, but I think the most beautiful way, has to be te Salkantay Trek. High mountain passes, stunning lakes, and finally jungle.  This route takes you past the most incredible landscapes. While the Inca Trail might be the classic choice, the Salkantay is quieter and wilder. The Salkantay Trek is often called the adventurous alternative to the Inca Trail.  If you’re considering Salkantay, here’s everything you need to know, plus my day-by-day itinerary.

Check my guide to Machu Picchu here.

Why Salkantay vs the Inca Trail?

Most people immediately think of the Inca Trail, but permits sell out months in advance and the trail can feel busy. Salkantay is different. It’s open to more hikers, but feels quieter. It doesn’t require a permit, and it weaves through some of the most dramatic scenery in the Andes. This trek is more nature focussed and has less Inca ruins. However, since Machu Picchu, our final stop, is the most impressive Inca Ruin anyway, I preferred a trek that’s more nature focussed. It includes a visit to Humanity lake and the scenery is impressive throughout the entire Salkantay trek.

Visitors per day	Unlimited, but it feels quiet.	maximum of  500 a day
Difficulty	challenging	average
Hoogste punt	4.630 meter	4.215 meter
Landscapes	blue lakes, glaciers and rainforest	green route past Inca ruins
Amount of days	4 or 5 days	4 days
Sleeping arrangements	litte huts or tents	Tents
Arrival Machu Picchu	Through Aquas Calientes	Through the sungate
Reservations	flexible, can be done last minute	book 6 months in advance
Cost	€275 – €800	€550 – €800

When to Go & Altitude Preparation

• Best time: Dry season, roughly May through September is ideal. October also possible. Outside of this expect more rain, slippery trails. However, we hiked in April and I absolutely loved how green it was! You have to get lucky, but the end of the rainy season is actually the most beautiful in my opinion.

• Acclimatization: Essential. Spend at least 2 full days in Cusco (or other high altitude place) before starting. Take it easy, hydrate, avoid heavy alcohol, consider coca tea.

• Fitness: You don’t need to be a professional mountaineer, but you do need to be in good shape: stair-climbing, long hikes, endurance training  help. Altitude makes everything harder. I think most people would be able to make it, but if you’re not in shape it might not be an enjoyable experience.

What to Pack

The 5 day Salkantay Itinerary day by day

Below is a version of the 5-day classic route I did, ending at Machu Picchu. It is possible to do a 4 day version of the trek, but I recommend taking the 5 day version.

Day 1: Cusco to Quiswarniyoc

The alarm went off around 3 a.m., and soon I was in a bus driving away from Cusco toward the mountains. After assembling the group, you will depart from Cusco around 5:15 AM, heading towards the town of Mollepata. After a 2 hour drive you’ll arrive and have breakfast at one of the local restaurants.  From there it’s 1 more hour of driving to get to Soraypampa. When we arrived at Soraypampa we met the crew for the week. Our guides introduced the cooks and horseman before we started our trek. We began walking at Soraypampa, which is located at 3912 meters. Gradually you start climbing to Lake Humantay, which is one of the highlights of the trek. So you’re starting the trek of right! After lunch and a photo break at Lake humanity we continue to Quiswarniyoc. This is where we will spend the first night at 4000 meters.   This first day eases you in, but because of the altitude it can feel quite intense right away.  The night at Soraypampa is cold, so layers are your best friend here.

Distance: 6 km – 5 hours of walking 

Day 2: Soraypampa to Chaullay via the Salkantay Pass

This is the toughest and most unforgettable day. The trail climbs steadily to the Salkantay Pass at almost 4,700 meters, the highest point of the trek. The trek up will take around 3 hours. Acclimatization is key, because if your body is not adjusted to the altitude it could not just be challenging, but dangerous. If you’ve given yourself some time to acclimatize, you should be fine! Breathing feels heavy, the pace slows, but the reward is spectacular: feeling the energy of the magnificent Salkantay Mountain.  When you’re at the top off the pass, the views are incredible all the way around. From the pass the trail begins its long descent. It is around another 6 hours down. By evening the landscape has already transformed into lush valleys and cloud forest. We spent the night near Chaullay, warmer and greener than the night before.

Distance: 22 km – 9 hours of walking 

Day 3: Into the Cloud Forest

The third day feels like stepping into a different world. The icy peaks are behind you, replaced by hot and humid weather, walking through thick vegetation. The trail winds through the forest, sometimes crossing rivers and small bridges, until you reach the village of Lucmabamba or La Playa. This day of Salkantay Trek is the most relaxed, as it’s only 5 hours of hiking. The company I went with, offered a coffee tour in the afternoon and the option to include zip lining or a visit to the Santa Teresa hot springs. We were so happy to soak in the hot water, giving our legs a rest.

Distance: 16 km – 5 hours of walking 

Day 4: From Lucmabamba to Aguas Calientes

On the fourth morning, we climbed an old Inca trail through coffee plantations and thick jungle, with glimpses of the valley below. This was supposed to be a relatively short day of hiking. However, instead of the planned 6 hours, it took over 10 hours to get to Agua Calientes. I think the time indication, must have been off, because when I check the schedule now, they’ve updated it to 9 hours. We also had to deal with some landslides, so that also resulted in more time. Eventually the path led us to Hidroelectrica, where the forest gave way to railway tracks. Following the rails, we walked for several hours until Aguas Calientes appeared. This is the busy little town at the foot of Machu Picchu. It felt strange to be back among restaurants, shops, and Wi-Fi after days of wilderness.

Distance: 19 km – 9 hours of walking 

Day 5: Machu Picchu

The final morning is the reason we came all this way. You can take the bus op to Machu Picchu or hike up. Before dawn we joined the line to enter Machu Picchu, and as the sun rose the mist lifted slowly from the ancient stone terraces. Seeing the citadel appear like this, after days of walking, made it feel earned. Exploring the site, wandering between temples and terraces, and finally looking back at the mountains I had crossed, it’s a moment I’ll never forget. We had bought the additional ticket to climb up Machu Picchu mountain. By the afternoon we were on the train back to Cusco, sore and dusty but filled with awe.

What you should keep in mind when booking:

• Group size: Prices usually drop when in larger groups. Private tours are significantly more expensive.

• What “camp / lodge” includes: Some include full camping gear, duffle-bag porters, plus meals and even extras like tents, sleeping pads, etc. Others are more basic.

• Transportation & train options: Some tours include the train or “Vistadome” upgrade back from Machu Picchu; others don’t, or charge extra.

• Altitude & route: Some versions add an extra night to help with acclimatization; some go via different camps, which can alter cost.

• Permit / entrance fees: Check if entrance Machu Picchu ticket is included, and whether any optional hikes (Huayna Picchu, Machu Picchu Mountain) are extra.

Accommodation & Facilities on the Salkantay Trek

The route of the Salkantay Trek is virtually the same for every tour operator. What really sets them apart is the level of comfort they offer, from accommodation and meals to small extras along the way. So it’s worth checking carefully what’s included before you book.

We went for a budget trek, so we spent the first night in a wooden cabin, the second one in a tent, and the third  in a tent as well. The 4th night we spend in a hotel in Aguas Calientes. However, the hotel had a mold issue and me an my mom ended up booking something else, even though it was included in the tour. The sleeping mats were comfortable enough, though not every place provided pillows. The campsites themselves are not secluded — most companies set up their base in the same areas.

Each camp has basic toilets, but there are no facilities between the camps. The first night is spent at around 4,000 meters, with no electricity or showers, so make sure your power bank is fully charged before you start. On the following nights, you’ll have access to electricity, (hot) showers, and even Wi-Fi (usually for a small fee).

Because the first night can get very cold, we highly recommend bringing or renting a good-quality sleeping bag that’s suitable for sub-zero temperatures.

Food & Drinks on the Trek

The meals you get depend on the company you choose, but most treks include a cook who travels with the group, preparing everything from breakfast to dinner on-site. Even on our budget trek we were pleasantly surprised by the quality and taste of the food,  it was fresh, and always varied.

That said, snacks weren’t included on our trek, so it’s a good idea to bring your own small bites for during the day. We brought some energy bars. Drinking water is also not always included in the price. Since you’ll be sleeping in remote areas, there’s no access to free tap water, and carrying water up the mountains is logistically difficult.

As a result, you’ll pay two to three times the regular price for bottled water at the camps. Bring a reusable bottle and, if possible, a water purification system or tablets — it’ll save you money and reduce waste.