Trekking in Northern Laos: A 3-Day Hike to Phongsaly’s Mountain Tribes
Far in the north of Laos, lies Phongsaly, one of the country’s most remote and untouched regions. I searched for a long time to find a trek that would take me past some hill tribes, but wasn’t too touristy. I took a 14 hour drive in a minivan from Luang Prabang. I know that sounds rough, but I promise it was worth it. Phongsaly is the kind of place that makes you feel like you’ve gone back in time. Few travelers venture this far north, but for those who do, the reward is a trek that offers both raw adventure and a rare glimpse into everyday life in the mountain villages of Laos.
Why Trek in Phongsaly
While most travelers in Laos stick to Luang Prabang or Nong Khiaw, Phongsaly feels different — wilder, quieter, and still authentic. Nestled close to the Chinese and Vietnamese borders, this mountainous region is home to more than 20 ethnic minority tribes, each with their own language, traditional dress, and customs.
Trekking here isn’t just about nature (though the landscapes are breathtaking) , but also about connection. You hike through terraced rice fields, bamboo forests, and remote villages where life has changed little over generations. The local communities welcome you into there homes when you pass through.
The best way to do it is on a guided multi-day trek starting from the town of Phongsaly, where local organizations arrange routes and homestays directly with village communities.
3 day trek to the Akha Tribes
The route I took, organized through Amazing Lao Travel, started from Phongsaly town and led through remote Akha villages, following jungle paths and high mountain ridges.
Day 1 – From the River to the Mountains
The day began early, leaving Phongsaly by car for a winding 1.5-hour drive to Hatsa village. From there, we continued by boat, gliding along the Nam Ou River for about 45 minutes, past fishermen casting nets and steep green cliffs rising on both sides.
When we stepped ashore near a small power dam, the trek began. The first stretch followed a quiet path alongside a narrow river, shaded by thick jungle and the sounds of rushing water. We stopped for a lunch in a nearby village before beginning the long, steep climb into the mountains.
The higher we went, the more incredible the views became. Layers of rolling hills fading into blue mist. By late afternoon, we reached Ban Paicho, an Akha tribe village where we’d spend the night. The wooden houses stood on stilts overlooking the valley, smoke curling from cooking fires. They burn the fires inside the house, so prepare to smell like smoke for a couple of days. Dinner was simple, sticky rice, vegetables, peanuts and tea, but eaten together on the floor with our hosts, it felt like the perfect meal. We also slept in one of the traditional houses. Make sure to bring warm clothes as it can get cold at night.
Approx. 2 hours transfer, 5–5.5 hours trekking. Difficulty: challenging.
Day 2 – Crossing the Ridges Between Akha Villages
After breakfast, we set off toward a chain of other Akha villages: Ban Naporxang, Ban Peryenxangkao, and Ban Peryenxangmai. The trail wound steadily upward, through forests and open ridgelines with views that stretched for miles.
At lunchtime, we stopped in Ban Peryenxangkao, where children ran barefoot between wooden houses and elders sat weaving baskets in the shade. After a short rest, we continued hiking along the ridge, following narrow mountain trails until we reached Ban Peryenxangmai, where we would stay the night. We sat around the campfire inside the house, before one final night in a hill tribe village.
That evening, our guide translated stories about village life. How the Akha still practice animist traditions and mark their homes with symbolic wooden gates to protect against spirits.
Approx. 5–5.5 hours trekking. Difficulty: moderate.
Day 3 – The Descent Back to the Nam Ou
Our final day began with roosters crowing at 04:00 in the morning and the smell of woodsmoke in the cool mountain air. We followed a trail down to Ban Maichalern, stopping to chat with locals and watch farmers working in the terraced fields. From there, the path climbed again along a ridge before descending to Ban Chakhampa, another peaceful Akha village.
By midday, we reached the Nam Ou River once more. The final stretch was along a dirt tractor road, winding down through endless layers of green hills until the water appeared below.
We boarded a small boat back downstream toward the power dam. It was a peaceful 45-minute ride that felt like a quiet reflection on the past three days. After lunch at Ban Hatsa, our driver took us back to Phongsaly, arriving just before sunset, tired, dirty, and completely content.
Approx. 2 hours transfer, 4–5 hours trekking. Difficulty: moderate.
Trek Overview
- Start: 7:30 AM at Amazing Lao Travel, Phongsaly
- End: Around 5:00 PM on Day 3, back in Phongsaly
- Total Trekking Time: 14–16 hours across 3 days
- Accommodation: Village homestays (basic, clean, with mosquito nets)
- Highlights: Nam Ou River boat rides, Akha tribe encounters, mountain ridge trails, breathtaking scenery
What to Bring
Phongsaly’s weather can change quickly, so come prepared for both sun and rain.
Here’s what I packed (and was glad I did):
- Good trekking shoes with grip
- Long pants and lightweight T-shirts
- Warm jacket (nights get chilly in the mountains)
- Raincoat (especially during rainy season)
- Hat and sunscreen
- Mosquito repellent
- Refillable water bottle
- Snacks and small gifts for homestay families (like tea or fruit)
How to Get to Phonsaly
Getting to Phongsaly is part of the adventure. From Luang Prabang or Nong Khiaw, take a bus or minivan north to Oudomxay (6 hours), then continue another 7–8 hours by road to Phongsaly. Roads are winding but scenic, with views of mountains and rice terraces along the way.
