Why Hike Mount Ijen? If you’re seeking a truly unique and otherworldly adventure in Indonesia, hiking Mount Ijen (Kawah Ijen) should be high on your list. Located in East Java, this active volcano is famous for two rare natural phenomena. Have you ever heard of a blue fire?The blue fire is caused by ignited sulfuric gases. The second is a turquoise crater lake, which both stunning, but also extremely toxic. It is the largest acidic crater lake in the world. The experience of hiking through the dark, under a star-filled sky, seeing the electric blue flames in the crater and then watching the sun come up over the lake, is something you won’t easily forget.
You can absolutely do the Mount Ijen hike independently, but many travelers opt for a guided tour—especially because it needs a bit of preparation. Let me explain the pro’s and con’s.
With a tour
With a tour everything is arranged for you: transportation, entry fees, gas masks, health certificate and a guide who can lead you to the blue fire safely in the dark. This can be especially helpful, if you’re not an experienced hiker or are traveling solo. Personally I was very happy I didn’t have to figure out where to get a gas maks and health certificate and could just relax. The crater lake is also super toxic and you can’t see much in the dark, so it’s a lot safer having someone show you where to go.
Going independently
Usually this would be my preferance. Going by yourself gives you more flexibility. You can rent a scooter or arrange private transport to the base, pay the entrance fee yourself, and hike at your own pace. It’s cheaper, but make sure you’re well-informed about the route, timing, and safety precautions.
Cost of doing it independently:
Entrance fee: The Kawah Ijen entrance fee for foreigners is 100,000 IDR/€5.70/$6,14 on weekdays and 150,000 IDR/€8.50/$9,20 on weekends. You also need a health certificate. Several healthcare facilities offer check-ups for this certificate, with costs ranging from IDR 25,000 to 100,000 per person. ($1,5-$6). You’d also have to rent a scooter. Scooter rental is usually around 100,000 IDR a day. You’d probably save around $10 going by yourself vs. going with a tour.
What would I recommend?
I booked with Explore Our Indonesia and paid 395.000 IDR/$24, including the health certificate, transportation, entrance ticket and gas mask. For me it was worth the extra money to have the convenience of not having to worry about the health certificate and gas maks. I also wouldn’t have known where to find the blue fire. It may seem obvious once you’ve done it. However, while you’re hiking in the dark it’s nice to have a guide show you the way. We actually saw some people heading down into the crater in the wrong spot and guides were shouting at them to come back up.
How to Prepare for the Ijen Volcano
Gas mask: Essential for getting close to the blue fire due to toxic sulfur gases. Tours usually provide these, but if you go on your own, you’ll need to rent or bring one. You can rent one at the starting point of the hike.
Health certificate: A recent health certificate stating you are fit to hike is required for entry. Some clinics in Banyuwangi offer quick check-ups for this, and most tour companies will help arrange it. Without one, you may be denied access at the base.
Prepare to leave around midnight: You’ll have to leave Banyuwangi around midnight to make it to the trailhead in time.
Scooter rental: You’ll need to rent a scooter to get from Banyuwangi to the trailhead.
Warm clothes: The hike starts around midnight or 1 a.m., and it gets cold on the mountain.
Headlamp or flashlight: The trail is dark until sunrise, and you want something that can properly light the way. Especially on your way down the crater to see the blue fire.
Sturdy shoes: The path is rocky and dusty—proper hiking shoes are a must.
Snacks and water: There are basic stalls at the base, but bring what you need to stay energized.
Cash: For entrance fees, parking, or last-minute rentals.
How to See Both the Blue Fire and the Sunrise
To catch both, timing is everything. The blue fire is only visible in the dark, so you’ll want to start your hike around 2 a.m. You won’t be able to go any easier, because they open the entrance at 2. The hike to the crater rim takes about 1.5–2 hours, and another 30–45 minutes down into the crater to see the blue flames. You want to make sure to be one of the first people in, because the path down to the blue fire is narrow. When it get’s busy, people have to queue to go down and it can moe slowly. We managed to be among the first 5 people to reach the blue fire and if got there any later, we would not have made it back up in time for sunrise.
After viewing the blue fire, begin heading back up before sunrise—aim to be at the crater rim again by around 5:00–5:30 a.m. It will not be easy to go back up, because a large amount of people will be coming down the narrow path. Be respectful and let people pass and try to quickly move you’ve got the chance. If you’re lucky you’ll catch the magical first light illuminating the crater lake and surrounding landscape. The transition from glowing blue fire to a sun-drenched crater is absolutely surreal. I highly recommend walking as far onto the crater as you can. Most people stop somewhere halfway. If you walk down a bit further you’ll have a spot all to yourself.
If you are going with a tour, make sure to ask about their exact itinerary. You want to start walking around 2:00.
Difficulty: Moderate. The trail is steep in parts but manageable for anyone with average fitness. The final descent into the crater is the most challenging, with loose rocks and steep slopes—be cautious.
Altitude: The summit is about 2,799 meters (9,183 feet) above sea level.
Atmosphere: Expect crowds during peak season (especially weekends), but it’s still an unforgettable experience. Sulfur miners work in the crater—respect their space and work. Make sure to get to the blue fire as early as possible, or you might not make it back up in time to see the sunrise on the crater rim. The crowds cause ‘traffic jams’ and you might be stuck on the path up and down the crater.
How to Get There
Mount Ijen is located in East Java, between the towns of Banyuwangi (eastern approach) and Bondowoso (western approach). Most travelers base themselves in Banyuwangi, as it’s closer and has better infrastructure for tourists.
Getting to Ijen:
From Banyuwangi: It’s about a 1.5-hour drive to the Paltuding base camp where the hike starts.
From Bali: It is also possible to visit from Bali. Take a ferry from Gilimanuk (northwest Bali) to Ketapang in East Java (about 1 hour), then continue to Banyuwangi by car or taxi.
By tour: Many operators run overnight tours from Bali or Java, which include transport, guide, and gear. Some include Bromo and waterfall Tumpak Sewu.
How to get to Banguwangi?
Banyuwangi, the gateway to Mount Ijen, is located on the eastern tip of Java, Indonesia. The easiest way to get there is by flying directly to Banyuwangi Airport (BWX) from major cities like Jakarta or Surabaya—flights are frequent and relatively affordable. Alternatively, you can take a train from Surabaya, which offers a scenic 6–7 hour ride through East Java’s countryside. For travelers coming from Bali, you can take a ferry from Gilimanuk (in West Bali) to Ketapang Port in East Java, which is just a short drive from Banyuwangi. Once you arrive, local transport or your tour provider can take you to your accommodation and the Ijen basecamp.
I took the train from Surabaya and it was very comfortable!
Where to stay ?
Banyuwangi or Licin? Banyuwangi is the most popular base for Ijen tour. It takes around 1-1.5 hours to drive to the base of Mount Ijen, This makes it a great starting point for the early morning trek. But this is not the only reason why I chose Banyuwangi. There are many hotels and home stays in Banyuwangi to choose from. It has a good train connection to the rest of Java and a ferry connection to Bali. As a foodie, I also like having a lot of restaurants to choose from. Licin is a small town, that’s a bit closer to the volcano, but since you’re getting up in the middle of the night for the hike, those extra 30 minutes of sleep are not going to help much. However, It does have some beautiful accommodations in nature with incredible views. If you enjoy staying a bit more remote, you will love it. Purwa Ijen for example, has stunning views of the rice fields and the bungalows are stylishly decorated. For a luxury stay in Banyuwangi, have a look at Dialoog Banyuwangi.
I stayed at Snooze hostel and I’d highly recommend it. It’s clean, has a beautiful little courtyard where you can chill and the staff is super helpful.