Most people visiting Bohol follow a pretty predictable itinerary. They stay in Panglao, spend a day at the famous Chocolate Hills, visit the tarsier sanctuary and perhaps take a Loboc River cruise before heading back to the beach. And while those famous sights are worth seeing, you’d be missing some of the best parts of Bohol if you stopped there.

The further you travel into the island, the more Bohol changes. Think hidden waterfalls, rice terraces, dramatic viewpoints, tiny villages, jungle-covered mountains, incredible coral reefs and natural cave pools. The eastern side of the island, barely gets tourists, while it has places like Anda and the Alicia viewpoint.

If you have the time, I highly recommend getting a scooter and exploring beyond the usual tourist route. Here are the places I think you shouldn’t miss.

Where to Stay in Bohol

Bohol is a massive island, but most people stay in Panglao. Panglao is all the way in the South-west so it’s not actually the most conveniently located to visit the rest of the island. I personally do not enjoy places that are overcrowded so I decided to skip Panglao all together. There are much nicer beaches and dive spots in the Philippines anyway, so I wanted to see a different side of the island.

The main options are Panglao, Close to the Chocolate hills, close to Loboc River or in Anda. I chose to stay in the center of the island at Bohol Hammock Hostel. This is a fantastic spot if you’re looking for the hostel vibe. They do offer private rooms as well, so even if you’ve moved past the dorm life, you can still enjoy it. They offer a veggie dinner every evening and organise a sunrise hike to see the Chocolate hills. You can also rent your scooter with them and with the location being so central it’s a good starting point to explore. The only place that I think is too far for a day trip is Anda. You should plan to stay a few nights there as well.

I can recommend Anda White Beach Resort! It has an infinity pool with view, good food and direct access to the beach. The people working there were super kind and helpful.

Near Loboc River I recommend Fox & The Firefly Cottages.

What to do in Bohol

Chocolate Hills

Of course, you can’t come to Bohol and completely skip the Chocolate Hills. They’re famous for a reason. (Although I do actually prefer the Alicia viewpoint myself)

Spread across central Bohol, these unusual perfectly round limestone hills form one of the island’s most recognizable landscapes. There are more than a thousand of them, and during the dry season the grass turns brown, giving them their famous chocolate-like appearance. During the rainy season, they’re vibrant green instead. Even though they became famous as the ‘chocolate hills’ I think they are even more beautiful during the rainy season! The Chocolate Hills are also one of the geosites of Bohol Island UNESCO Global Geopark.

The Chocolate Hills Complex in Carmen is the classic viewpoint, where you climb the stairs to a viewing deck overlooking the hills. But here’s a tip: you don’t necessarily need to pay to get a great view. There is a free viewpoint along the road where you can stop and see the hills from a different perspective.

Tip: Sunrise and Sunset are popular for this activity, so if you want to avoid the biggest crowds the middle of the day is actually best. But I’d say the beautiful light is worth it and just find a free viewpoint!

Visit the Chocolate Farm

One of my favorite activities was visiting a cacao farm where you get to make your own chocolate! On this cacao farms you can learn more about how cacao is grown and processed. It’s a much more interesting experience than simply buying a chocolate bar in a souvenir shop. You can learn about the cacao-growing process, see the trees in the nursery, on the farm and taste locally produced chocolate. It’s also a nice way to support local farmers and get a glimpse into a side of Bohol that most visitors never see.

If you’re already exploring the countryside around the Chocolate Hills, adding a cacao farm to your itinerary is an easy way to make the day more interesting. It’s about a 25 minute drive from the main viewing deck. They also provide some snacks and tea, so make sure you’re not full from lunch.

I’d recommend making a reservation for the tour on their website! The tour is done at specific time slots and they are not open every day. 

Go Birdwatching in Rajah Sikatuna Protected Landscape

This was actually my favorite activity in Bohol. The island is home to many interesting birds, including some that are endemic to the island. Some of the main targets for birders include the Azure Breasted Pitta, Visayan wattled Broadbill, Philippine Trogon and many more. I personally also loved the Frogmouths. My bird guide Guide’s name is Mike and you can contact him on Whatsapp at +63 948 633 3369. He was absolutely amazing and managed to show us everything we wanted to see!

Bohol’s Waterfalls

One of the biggest reasons I’d encourage you to explore beyond Panglao is the waterfalls.

There are waterfalls scattered throughout Bohol, and some require a little more effort to reach than others. That makes them particularly rewarding after spending time around the island’s more popular attractions. The following three waterfalls can be combined:

Pahangog Falls

Pahangog Falls in Dimiao was my favorite waterfall on the island. It is not the biggest, but I think it’s the most naturally beautiful. I was way more impressed than I expected to be after the short hike. It is surrounded by lush greenery, the waterfall drops into a deep natural pool where you can cool off after the journey there.

It’s only a short hike to the waterfall, but these days a guide is required. Honestly it’s a great way to get to know someone local and the small fee goes into the local economy. I saw some people making a big fuss about not needing a guide and not wanting to pay, but I think they are missing the point completely. Please be respectful, because the local people should absolutely charge a fee both to protect natural resources and to benefit from all the tourist wanting to enjoy the natural beauty of their island.

Dam-Agan Falls

Dam-Agan Falls is another beautiful waterfall in the Dimiao area. If you’re exploring this part of Bohol, combine Pahangog Falls and Dam-Agan Falls (and maybe even Ingkumhan falls) into the same day rather than making separate trips. Dam-Agan has a fun raft to play with during your visit! It’s also a great photo prop.

This is one of those days where the journey is almost as enjoyable as the destination, you’ll be driving through the greener, quieter interior of the island and seeing far fewer tourists. I stopped at some rice fields on the way and the local people were always eager for a chat!

Ingkumhan Falls

Ingkumhan Falls was my least favorite out of these three that you can find close together. But you may as well visit it when you’re already in the area. It is still beautiful as well and worth adding to your Bohol itinerary, particularly if you enjoy getting away from the main tourist trail.

Can-umantad Falls

At around 60 metres high, Can-umantad Falls is regarded as the tallest waterfall in Bohol. The waterfall drops dramatically through the lush landscape of Candijay, making it one of the most impressive natural sights on the island.

And the setting is just as impressive as the waterfall itself.

I’d combine Cadapdapan Rice Terraces + Can-umantad Falls into the same day. It’s one of those Bohol day trips that takes you far beyond the typical Panglao itinerary and lets you experience the island’s agricultural and mountainous landscapes.

Cadapdapan Rice Terraces

If you make it to the eastern side of Bohol, don’t miss the Cadapdapan Rice Terraces.

These terraces are surrounded by lush green hills and farmland and are a beautiful example of the rural landscapes you’ll find away from the island’s beaches and tourist centres.

They’re particularly worth visiting because you can combine them with one of the region’s biggest attractions: Can-umantad Falls.

Kinahugan Falls

Another absolutely gorgeous untouched waterfall and swimming spot. It’s popular with the local youth as well. Since it’s a bit further away from everything it’s not touristy at all. If you love a natural swimming spot, you’ll love this place.

Pangas Falls

A very popular swimming spot for the surrounding villages and tourist staying near the Chocolate hills. Beautiful, but the most touristy out of the waterfalls I’ve visited. Still a nice place to relax for an afternoon though!

Alicia Panoramic Park

If you want one of the most spectacular viewpoints in Bohol, don’t overlook Alicia. I even preferred this viewpoint to the Chocolate hills. The Alicia Panoramic Park looks out over the Binabaje Hills, a dramatic landscape of rolling grass-covered hills in northeastern Bohol. The hills rise to around 400 metres and are very different from the rounded formations of the Chocolate Hills.

This is one of my favourite recommendations for travellers who want to see a side of Bohol that feels much less discovered. The landscape is especially beautiful when the hills are covered in vibrant green grass, and the viewpoint gives you a completely different perspective of the island.

It is essential to go early, because it can get very hot during the day. Most of the hike is completely exposed. So at some point it really becomes a struggle. There is the option to camp here and watch the sunrise from the top.

Why I Don’t Recommend Visiting the Tarsiers

Seeing a Philippine tarsier is high on many people’s Bohol bucket lists. These tiny, nocturnal primates are undeniably fascinating,  but after looking into the experience and hearing from other travellers, I personally don’t feel comfortable recommending tarsier tourism on Bohol.

Tarsiers are nocturnal animals, which means that during the day they would naturally be resting and hiding. At the ‘sanctuary’ the experience involved visitors being guided through an area where tarsiers were sitting in trees during the daytime. This is not observing the animals in their natural behavior; it felt more like the animals had been positioned where tourists could see them.I’ve only heard this from other travelers and decided it was not worth going as I would not be able to fel good about it. I asked if any of the people that visited saw or heard any information on conservation efforts and nobody learned anything about that during their visit.

An animal being labelled a “sanctuary” doesn’t automatically mean that visiting it is a responsible wildlife experience.

If you’re ever in Sulawesi, you can see Tarsiers in the wild in Tangkoko national park. 

Loboc River Cruise — But Skip the Big Tourist Boat

The Loboc River is one of Bohol’s classic attractions, and it’s easy to see why. The river winds through lush tropical vegetation and offers a completely different perspective of the island. Personally I wouldn’t recommend the big tourist boat. However, I can imagine that with the right group, you may have fun. They have a buffet lunch and music on board. But if you’re like me and prefer experiences that feel a little more personal, I’d skip the big floating restaurant-style cruise. Instead, look for a smaller local boat or private river experience.

Me and a friend rented a small boat with Darling watersport & Equipment rental which is a small local business. Some young local guys managed the boat and we just got to relax. At the end of the trip you reach a waterfall and with the big boat that’s were you’d turn around, but we made a quick stop here to go for a swim and play in the waterfalls.

And if you have time, stay in Loboc rather than simply visiting on a day trip from Panglao. This way you can also experience the fire flies on the river.

See the Fireflies on the Loboc River

One of the most special experience on the Loboc river in Bohol is seeing fireflies along the river at night. As it gets dark, the trees along the water begin to light up with tiny flashes of green, and being out on the river surrounded by darkness and fireflies is a completely different experience from the daytime cruises. This is why it’s nice to spend a night near Loboc. You don’t have to rush back to Panglao after your river experience, and you can experience the river when the atmosphere changes completely after sunset.

I have not experienced it, but there is also a firefly tour along the Lungsodaan River in Candijay.

Stay in Anda

If you only take one piece of advice from this guide, don’t spend your entire Bohol trip in Panglao. Panglao is convenient, has lots of accommodation and restaurants, and is a good base for your first few days. But if you have the time, head east and spend a couple of nights in Anda. Anda is quieter, more relaxed and surrounded by some incredible natural scenery. You’ll find beaches, limestone formations, cave pools and perhaps most excitingly, excellent diving and snorkeling.

The area is increasingly recognised for its coral reefs and underwater life, while still feeling considerably less developed than Panglao. Bohol’s own tourism information highlights Anda’s beaches, cave pools and vibrant coral reefs.

Snorkelling in front of Blue Star Dive Resort

One of my favourite underwater spots in Anda is the reef directly in front of Blue Star Dive Resort. The reef is incredibly colorful, with lots of beautiful yellow and purple corals, and the visibility can make the whole experience feel like you’re swimming through an aquarium. There’s usually turtles to be found here!

And if you’re a diver, Anda is definitely worth putting on your radar too.

Price for Access to the snorkeling spot: 150 pesos

Cabagnow Cave Pool

Another reason to visit Anda is the limestone cave pools, although I found it a little underwhelming. Cabagnow Cave Pool is probably the most famous. Bohol’s UNESCO Global Geopark identifies Cabagnow as one of several cave pools in the Anda area, formed in the island’s limestone landscape.

It’s beautiful, but I did expect it to be bigger. However, If you’re in Anda it’s worth going, but I wouldn’t travel all the way here only for this. Locals  love to visit this spot. You’ll find lots of people jumping from the top and enjoying a swim. The water is very blue, but it comes out the best once the sunlight touches the water. We were there quite early and the sun was not on it yet.

Entrance fee: environmental fee 30 PHP, Motorbike parking fee: 10 PHP, entrance 50 PHP, Total: 90 PHP

Opening hours: 8:00 AM to 4:00 PM, Closed Monday an Friday

Favorite Restaurants on Bohol