The Banggai Islands are one of those places that require a little more effort to reach, but that’s exactly what makes them so special. Located off the eastern coast of Central Sulawesi, this remote Indonesian archipelago is made up of dozens of islands, with Peleng being the largest and one of the easiest to visit.

Peleng is where you will likely begin your Banggai adventure. It’s relatively accessible from Luwuk and is home to the destination’s most famous attraction: Paisu Pok. The incredibly clear freshwater lake surrounded by tropical greenery. The lake has become something of an Instagram sensation, but there is more to see than one photogenic lake. Around the island you’ll find quiet beaches, turquoise bays, natural springs and small villages where tourism still feels very much in its early stages.

The Banggai Islands are actually much larger than Peleng. Banggai Laut, to the east, offers another collection of beaches and islands and can be added to your itinerary if you have more time. I personally chose not to visit Banggai Laut on this trip, as getting there and then making my way back to Luwuk would have added quite a bit of travel time. Besides, extra time, you’d also have to expand your budget as taking a boat there is relatively expensive. Instead, I focused on exploring Peleng at a slower pace.

Things to do in the Banggai Islands

Visit Paisu Pok

Paisu Pok is the place that probably put the Banggai Islands on your radar. This small freshwater lake on Peleng is famous for its unbelievably clear, blue-green water, surrounded by dense tropical vegetation. I’d seen videos, but it absolutely blew my mind in real life!

Because of the remote location, it’s not that crowded yet, but you’re not going to have it completely to yourself. Its popularity has grown considerably, particularly among Indonesian visitors. If you want a quieter experience, go early in the day. I arrived early and was actually the only one there for around 40 minutes! I soaked it all in and paddles and swam around the lake. Boats and paddle boards are available at the lake for a fee, and swimming is allowed as well. The water is cool and refreshing and perfect on a hot day.

Entrance fee: 5000 IDR

Kawalu Bay

Kawalu Bay is a 30 minute walk or short drive away from Paisu Pok. The calm turquoise water, limestone cliffs and lush vegetation make it feel completely different from the beaches on the island. In this bay salty and fresh water mix, creating a blurred effect underwater. If you have a mask, take a look underwater! 

Paisu Batango / Batango Spring

Just a short distance from Paisu Pok you’ll find Paisu Batango, a natural spring where freshwater meets the sea. The water has an incredible turquoise colour and the setting, surrounded by jungle, is beautiful. It’s worth knowing that this isn’t an untouched swimming hole. Locals use the spring for washing and bathing, so when you visit, be respectful and check whether it’s appropriate to swim.

Snorkeling at Poganda Beach

This white sand beach is gorgeous to lay down and relax, but it’s also perfect for snorkeling. The reef is just meters from the shore and if you come in the early morning you might even see dolphins pass by in the distance.  The long stretch of white sand, clear shallow water and palm trees makes it a lovely place to spend a few hours. It’s around 30 minutes from Paisu Pok by road, so it’s easy to combine with the lake and Paisu Batango. Bring your own food and drinks, though, as facilities are limited. Or plan to have lunch before coming here.

Entrance fee: 10,000 IDR/€0.49 to enter Poganda beach and 5000 IDR for motorbike parking

Oyama Beach – if you have more time

If you have more time, consider continuing to Banggai Laut. I didn’t make it there myself because of the additional travel time involved, but Oyama Beach is one of the places that comes up again and again when researching the area. Located on Banggai Island, Oyama is known for its white sand and incredibly clear turquoise water. Reaching it requires a boat, so it’s better suited to travelers who have several extra days rather than those trying to squeeze the Banggai Islands into a short itinerary. It can also be quite costly to rent a private boat, so if you can share with a few people that can help get the cost down.

Where to stay

I’d recommend staying in or around Luk Panenteng, particularly if Paisu Pok is one of the main reasons you’re visiting. There are family-run homestays in the area, and staying locally means you can explore Paisu Pok and the surrounding attractions without constantly traveling back and forth. I wanted to stay near Paisu Pok so I could be the first one there in the morning. 

Don’t expect luxury here. Accommodation is simple, and that’s part of the charm. You’re coming to Peleng for the nature, the quiet and the experience of being somewhere that hasn’t yet been built around international tourism.

I stayed at Gracia Homestay. The people were lovely, and the room was simple, but clean! They were super helpful, arranged food and a motorbike. I don’t think anywhere here has AC, so it get’s quite hot, but there is a fan.

Where to eat

Don’t come to Banggai/Peleng expecting a huge choice of restaurants. Food is generally simple and local, and if you’re staying in a homestay, meals can often be arranged there. Small local warungs are your best option for inexpensive meals during the day. Make sure to message your homestay in advance about dinner, so they can make arrangements. One of the things I enjoyed about Peleng was that it still feels like a place where you’re visiting someone’s home rather than staying in a destination designed entirely for tourists.

There are two local restaurants in Luk Panenteng. My favorite: Bonua Kaanan Azzam, because of its incredible view and Warung Makan Barokah Teluk Luwu.

How to get to the Banggai Islands

Getting to the Banggai Islands takes some planning, but it’s not as complicated as it might initially seem.

The easiest starting point is Luwuk, a town on the eastern coast of Sulawesi with its own airport, Syukuran Aminuddin Amir Airport (LUW). From Luwuk, you continue by road to the harbour and then cross the sea to Peleng by ferry or speedboat.

What I did:

I crossed with the local ferry from Pelabuhan Rakyat  to Leme-Leme, which takes roughly two to three hours. Once you arrive on Peleng, you’ll need further transport to reach the various attractions. A scooter, car with driver or locally arranged transport can be useful depending on where you’re staying. I arranged a pickup through my homestay. If you don’t have too much luggage with you, you could also rent a scooter when you arrive.

I’m not exactly sure why, but the boat has no normal seating. It has these ‘beds’ you can lay down on. I ended up sitting on the deck for a big part of the trip, because I found it more comfortable. You an also pay 50.000 extra for a cabin, but I saw them and didn’t think it was worth it.

Getting around the Banggai Islands by boat

Travel between Luwuk and the Banggai Islands is surprisingly straightforward once you know how it works. The routes below are all served by public boats, and you generally don’t need to book in advance. Simply head to the harbour and buy your ticket there. Keep in mind that schedules can change, so always double-check departure times locally.

Luwuk → Leme-Leme (Peleng)
This is one of the easiest ways to reach Peleng. A large wooden passenger boat usually leaves Luwuk daily at around 2 PM and takes approximately 2 hours. Tickets cost around 50,000–54,000 IDR, and you can often get a private cabin for an additional 50,000 IDR. Don’t be surprised if the boat leaves an hour later than scheduled.  Indonesian jam karet(“rubber time”) definitely applies here! The return boat from Leme-Leme to Luwuk usually leaves between 8 and 9 AMand takes around 2–3 hours.

Luwuk → Salakan (Banggai Kepulauan)
Public boats, including the KM Tarasanca, usually leave Luwuk at around 4 PM. The journey takes approximately 3.5–4 hours, with tickets costing around 50,000–75,000 IDR.

Luwuk → Banggai (Banggai Laut)
If you’re continuing all the way to Banggai Laut, there are daily ferries from Luwuk, including RoRo ferries such as the KMP Tanjung Api and KM Harapanku Mekar. They generally depart at around 11 AM, and the journey takes approximately 8 hours. Expect to pay around 86,000–132,000 IDR for a regular ticket. Private double cabins may also be available for roughly €25 extra. The ferry arrives at the harbour in Tinakin Laut. Ferries also run from Banggai back to Luwuk, usually departing in the evening.

Salakan ↔ Banggai Laut
You can also travel between Salakan and Banggai Laut by local boat or speedboat. The crossing generally takes around 2–3 hours, although travel times and departures are more dependent on weather and sea conditions.

Luwuk → Lukpanenteng (Paisu Pok)
If Paisu Pok is your main reason for visiting Peleng, this route can save you quite a bit of travel time. On most Thursdays, there is a direct local ferry from Luwuk to Lukpanenteng, the village near Paisu Pok. The crossing takes around 2 hours and costs approximately 60,000 IDR. One important detail: this boat leaves from Pelabuhan Luwuk, not Pelabuhan Rakyat, so make sure you go to the correct harbour.

Good to know: You can generally buy tickets for these boats on the day of departure, without reserving anything online. However, schedules in the Banggai Islands aren’t set in stone. Weather, sea conditions and other factors can affect departure times, so always confirm the latest schedule locally before planning the next part of your trip.