Ideal travel route for Sri Lanka

When planning your trip to Sri Lanka, there’s a few things to decide. What direction are you traveling in and of course, what are the places you cannot miss. For this route I recommend taking around 3 weeks, but you can adjust it to do either 2 weeks or 4 weeks. With this article planning your trip should be a piece of cake! I’ll share my experiences to help you put together your perfect travel route for Sri Lanka.

What direction should I travel in Sri Lanka?

Personally, I like to end my trips with beach days, while at the beginning of a trip I like to be more active. So naturally I headed north first and made my way around the countryside and mountains before heading south. However, there is a big advantage to doing the coast first. That way you’ll travel the famous train route in opposite direction. It will be less crowded and easier to get a ticket! So, if you’re set on doing the famous train trip between Kandy and Ella, going the opposite direction might be worth it.

Tip: Rent your own tuktuk to travel around with. If you rent with Tuktukrental.com use my code:BRUNETTEATSUNSET for a discount.

Best travel time for Sri Lanka:

This is not an easy question to answer as Sri Lanka is made up of several micro climates. The best time to visit the south/west coast of Sri Lanka, as well as the hilly center, is from December to March. This period experiences the lowest rainfall and most sunshine of the year. During that time the Maha monsoon will hit the North of the Country with its peak in November and December. I visited in January and barely had any rain anywhere.

3-4 week route through Sri Lanka

Negombo

You’ll likely fly into Colombo airport, but neighboring town Negombo is actually closer to the airport. Personally, I much prefer Negombo. Not that the capital isn’t worth a visit, but this fishing town will provide a much more relaxed start to your trip. There’s a nice boat trip around the rivers and lakes and a few landmarks to visit. However, most of the town can be seen in a day.

Read my full guide to Negombo here

Favorite accommodation in Negombo:

I found Villa Shade with a beautiful garden, pool, treehouse and they also grow their own organic veggies! It’s located outside of the center, but you can very easily take a grab into town.

If you’d rather stay in the center, then try Serendib Village Guest house. Just 4 minutes from the beach and located next to a canal, this has a great location. It’s also reasonably priced, so don’t wait too long to book as it’s often full.

Wilpattu National Park

While Yala is Sri Lanka’s most famous nature reserve, Wilpattu is the largest and one of the oldest. It’s home to elephants, nose bears, antelope, but it’s especially renowned for it’s leopard population. We saw 4 leopards during our safari! The park landscape is made up of beautiful lakes and dense forest. It’s becoming a more popular destination, but as of right now it’s still a lot less touristy than Yala. This for me, was the main reason for choosing Wilpattu for our safari.

Where to stay near Wilpattu:

Wilpattu Safari Resort is a newly opened resort that is located 5 minutes from the entrance of the park and takes care of everything for you!

Anuradhapura

Anuradhapura is part of the cultural triangle and famous for the historical center. The city is a UNESCO World Heritage site that feels like a time capsule of early civilization. With ruins spread all around the city, the infamous sacred Bodhi tree, and massive stupas like Ruwanwelisaya and Jetavanaramaya, this historic city has a lot to offer. Rent a bike to explore the archaeological sites scattered across the city and its surroundings and don’t miss the sacred Sri Maha Bodhi tree. The tree is said to be the oldest historically documented tree in the world.

Where to stay in Anuradhapura?

Little paradise Tourist Guesthouse has a great location, the loveliest staff, is clean and super affordable! They also serve good food in the in-house restaurant.

Choose Maho Boutique Hotel for a more luxury experience. Located in a lovely green area and with very attentive staff!

Sigiriya

Next, make your way to the iconic Lions rock in Sigiriya. This must surely be Sri Lanka’s most notable landmark. It’s gone viral on social media and has been displayed as the main focus of many tourist ads. This ancient royal citadel, perched atop a dramatic 200-meter-high rock, offers panoramic views of the surrounding jungle and villages. Climb the narrow staircase on the side of the rock past frescoes and lion paw carvings to reach the top, where you’ll find the ruins of a once-magnificent palace and gardens. Besides the famous rock, you can also visit neighboring rock, Pidurangula which provides the iconic view of Lion Rock. There is also the option to do a safari in one the nearby reserves.

Find my full guide to Sigiriya here

Where to stay in Sigiriya?

If you’re looking for a hostel experience Another World Hostel is amazing! Super social, fun and cheap events, good food and a good location.

The Otunna Guest house: The room is hotel-quality with the service and hospitality of a homestay. A generous and varied breakfast is served by a very friendly family who enjoys chatting. Dinesh also helps you plan your day with advice and arranges transportation if you wish. This is truly a place that stands out in terms of service and experience.

 

Dambulla

Dambulla can be done as a day trip from Sigiriya, but I think it deserves to be mentioned separately. It’s home to the country’s largest and best-preserved cave temple complex. Set into a rocky hill, the Dambulla Cave Temple features over 150 Buddha statues and colorful, centuries-old murals painted on the walls and ceilings. I found the temple to be one of Sri Lanka’s most impressive it should definitely be on your list!

 

Kandy/Knuckles

From Dambulla, head south to Kandy, the cultural heart of Sri Lanka. Visit the sacred Temple of the Tooth and enjoy a stroll around the scenic Kandy Lake. Even if you’re not into busy cities, it might still be worth visiting this area. For an off the beaten path nature escape, venture into the nearby Knuckles Mountain Range. This biodiverse highland area is ideal for hiking, offering beautiful trails, waterfalls, and jaw-dropping viewpoints. It’s a dream for backpackers that want to explore the island’s more wild, untouched side.

Where to stay in Kandy?

Hanthana House: Absolutely wonderful hotel up on a hill, just outside of Kandy. Very spacious, clean rooms with lovely food. Feels quite luxurious!

Where to in Knuckles?

Polwaththa Eco-Lodges: This lodge feels like it’s located in the jungle. It offers a ton of activities and yoga retreats.

How to get from Kandy to Ella

The famous train ride from Kandy to Ella is on most people itineraries. It’s often called one of the most beautiful train journeys in the world. I found it to be a little overhyped. Yes, it’s pretty, but the train ride takes about 7 hours and doing a shorter part of this journey will suffice as well. We opted to do the part between Nuwara Eliya (Nanu Oya) and Kandy by train. But unless you really want to take the well known instagram photo hanging from the train, driving a tuktuk through the mountains is just as beautiful. If I could choose again, I’d drive myself and avoid the long and packed train journey.

Stop at Ambulawawa Tower

If you’re driving down from Kandy to Nuwara Eliya, take a little detour to see the Ambulawawa tower. Located near Gampola, this spiraling white tower stands tall, high up on a lush green mountain. It offers a 360-degree views of misty valleys, rivers, and distant peaks. The climb up the narrow, winding staircase is not for the faint of heart—especially if you’re afraid of heights—but the reward at the top is nothing short of breathtaking. On a clear day, you can see as far as the Knuckles Mountain Range. At times I questioned how safe it was, because it’s two way traffic on an extremely narrow staircase and a handrail that only comes up to the hips.

Nuwara Eliya

High up in the central highlands, you’ll find Nuwara Eliya. Often called “Little England” for its colonial-era buildings and misty, cool climate. Surrounded by tea plantations and rolling hills, it’s a scenic stop perfect for sipping world-class Ceylon tea at a plantation. While we found the town itself a little drab, the surroundings are beautiful. If you’re into hiking, you can take a trip to Horton Plains to visit the dramatic cliff edge, called World’s End.

 

Ella

In Ella, you’ll be surrounded by tea plantations, rolling hills, and a pretty hikes. Ella has become very popular over the years. The bustling Main Street will be overwhelming to some, but stay in the surrounding hills if you prefer a quieter base. The best things to do are the hike to Little Adam’s Peak and Ella Rock or take in the views from the famous Nine Arches Bridge.

Find my full guide to Ella here.

Where to stay in Ella?

When choosing a spot to stay in Ella, you have to decide if you’d rather stay close to town or have a spot up the mountain with a beautiful view! The Spice lodge gives you the best of both worlds. It’s located just outside of town, so it’s a little quieter. However, It’s still walking distance from town. Another advantage is that it’s close the trailhead for little Adams peak!

Another beautiful accommodation in this same area is the green door. This is also my favorite restaurant in Ella.

Okeed is a budget guesthouse that’s run by a very sweet family. The grandfather brings you a delicious breakfast in the morning and the view is unbeatable. It’s basic, but you’ve got all you need an it’s cheap! This place is located up the mountain, but if you’re planning on hiking Ella Rock at sunrise, it’s actually a very convenient location. From there you can easily walk to the trailhead.

 

Hiriketiya

Hirikiteya was easily my favorite beach destination in Sri Lanka. The crescent-shaped bay that was once a hidden gem for surfers, yogis, and chill-seekers is developing quickly, but hasn’t lost it’s charm. The bay in Hirikiteya is a little overcrowded, but you can always go to neighboring beach Dickwella to relax. Hirikiteya’s beach is perfect however if you’re learning how to surf. It has a mellow beginner beach break and a left hander reef break for the intermediate surfers.

Where to stay in Hiriketiya?

Salt house: Popular spot in town for yoga and lunch. Really central location! Dorms are pricy, but it has a great vibe.

Drongo Place: Budget accommodation just outside of town. Beautiful garden, clean rooms and breakfast included. For this price, it’s worth the little walk into town.

 

Skip Ahangama

While many travelers flock to Ahangama for its surf breaks, it’s become increasingly overdeveloped and crowded in recent years. Overpriced cafes and construction noise have dulled the once-laidback charm, making it less appealing compared to quieter, more authentic coastal spots. If you’re a surfer, but want a more laid back vibe, try coconut beach or another spot in Midigama/Weligama. However, I know some people do really enjoy the trendy cafe’s and don’t mind that it’s become very touristy. The thing that I really didn’t like was that everything is located along a very busy street that’s almost impossible to cross.

So decide for yourself if it’s your vibe! If you love surfing and trendy cafe’s, these are places I recommend staying:

Where to stay in Ahangama

Makai Surf house: Lovely spot close to town, with a great breakfast and lunch restaurant. They’ve got both dorms and private rooms.

Galle

No trip to Sri Lanka is complete without a stroll through the streets of Galle Fort. There’s a lot to see inside the fort, but it is possible to see most of it in a day trip. Besides the fort, there’s not much to Galle, so if you’re strapped for time, I do recommend doing this as a day trip. This coastal colonial town is a charming blend of Dutch-era architecture, cobblestone roads, cute cafes, and boutique shops. This is all contained within massive stone ramparts overlooking the ocean. Spend your day taking a walk on the ramparts either at sunrise or sunset and explore the lighthouse and other landmarks to dive into the town’s history.

Hikkaduwa

Before driving back to Negombo, wrap up your Sri Lankan adventure in Hikkaduwa. It’s one of the island’s original beach destinations. It’s got a backpacker-meets-local-town vibe, with beachfront bars, very good surf, coral reefs for snorkeling, and a chance to spot sea turtles right off the shore. Hikkaduwa has also gotten busier, but it’s a great stop on your way back to the airport, especially if you enjoy surfing.

Where to stay in Hikkaduwa?

Villa Gamini: Incredible value for money. Super clean, brightest and spacious. Spotless with a great shower, comfy beds and balcony. It was very quiet but only a 5 minute walk to shops and restaurants

Mountain Wave Hotel and Surfshop: If you’re here for surfing, this is a great spot to stay. Right in front of the beach and surfboard rentals right downstairs.